Arianna E. Funk

i all diskretion

From the project "Kropp och Rum," with the intention of weaving yardage to clothe a body or a room.

Inspired by clippings I took from fashion magazines months ago and the work of Voices of Industry (among many other things), I set out to make a turtleneck with an oversized check--with a twist.

From the beginning I imagined the grid disappearing at one of the cross-points. It wasn't easy to achieve the look and texture I wanted with simple weaving techniques, but I ended up with a very fine fabric. We started with an 8-shaft satin, warp-faced except for the horizontal stripes, which had to be weft-faced if I were to get the color I wanted. But it wasn't giving the right contrast between the stripes and the ground color, so we settled on an 8-shaft balanced twill for the ground and kept the warp- and weft-faced satin for the stripes. That means 16 shafts and 16 pedals total--phew!

I used Möbelåtta, a thin two-plied yarn, in "natural" white and dyed the stripes by hand. The disappearing stripes could be described as ikat, but I say I just taped those bits to the side of the pot so they stayed white. I did more planning for this project than any before, and it was worth every minute--the disappearing crosses ended up just where they were supposed to, the grid was very nearly square, and the effect was really stunning.

Actually sewing the garment was not a part of this project, so it is currently an XXXXL scarf, or a very skinny blanket. It is called i all diskretion [with total discretion], pulled from the Swedish translation of Modiano's L'herbe des nuits, which I was reading at the time. This piece will be shown at the HV Open House in March 2015.